I’ve lived in Maryland my entire life but didn’t know or appreciate much of the Old Line State’s history — until I toured St. Mary’s City. And this year, the 375th anniversary of Maryland’s founding, is a great time to visit the southern part of the state.

As I drove to St. Mary’s County, with the Chesapeake Bay to my east and the Patuxent River to my west, I was immediately taken with the beauty of the county — a rural landscape wrapped in waterways. 

Where is the city?

My first question was: Where is the city? 

Well, there really isn’t a “city” like we know it. Rather, St. Mary’s City is a living museum commemorating the fourth permanent English settlement in North America and Maryland’s first capital.

In 1634, 140 English settlers led by Governor Leonard Calvert sailed across the Atlantic on the Ark and the Dove in search of religious freedom and a chance for a better life. On the edge of the New World, they planted a colony and the seeds of new government. The town they called St. Mary’s City was the capital of Maryland for 60 years. When the seat of government moved to Annapolis in 1695, St. Mary’s City quickly disappeared.

Early in the 20th century, interest in the old capital revived. Historical research and archeological excavations began to uncover the 17th-century settlement. Because the old city had remained relatively undisturbed over the years, the area is one of the finest 17th-century colonial archaeology sites in the nation.

Touring St. Mary’s City

Today, Historic St. Mary’s City is one of Southern Maryland’s leading tourism attractions. Grab your walking shoes and comfortable clothing and discover Maryland’s beginnings.

The place to begin your tour is the Welcome Center, on the edge of the St. Mary’s College campus, off Route 5.

At Historic St. Mary’s City, colorful costumed interpreters in re-created 17th-century settings tell the stories of Maryland’s first years, when St. Mary’s was the colony’s capital. At the Woodland Indian Hamlet, visitors discover how Maryland’s native population interacted with English colonists. 

As you walk through Town Center, notice the building frames. These structures, called ghost frames, designate where archaeologists have discovered 17th-century buildings. In some cases, the identity and history of these buildings are known, but others remain a mystery. 

Town Center at Historic St. Mary’s City includes Smith’s Ordinary, a re-creation of an ordinary or inn typical of Maryland in the last quarter of the 17th century, Cordea’s Hope, a storehouse and the State House, a re-creation of the original built in 1676. You will also get to tour the Dove, a replica square-rigged ship. You will also tour the Godiah Spray Tobacco Plantation and a working colonial farm. 

A highlight of the tour is the Print House, where an interpreter gives a demonstration of how to make a 17th-century print document. 

Be sure to visit www.stmaryscity.org/ Colonial_kids.html before you come with children. You will find some great interactive resources that will help your kids appreciate this time in history.

St. John’s Site Museum

Make sure to visit the St. John’s Site Museum, which is really an archaeology center preserving the foundation of the home, built in 1638, for Maryland’s first provincial secretary. It was where colonial legislators met to hammer out policies supporting the Proprietor’s mandate to separate church and state—150 years before the U.S. Constitution guaranteed religious freedom. Of the English colonies, this was the place where a woman first asked for the right to vote and where the first individual of African descent participated in a general assembly.

Some of the remarkable artifacts that have been found at the site are on display.  Exhibits dramatize the events that shaped Maryland and the nation’s first freedoms.  

Sotterley  Plantation

The Sotterley Plantation is the sole surviving Tidewater plantation in Maryland that is open to the public. Construction of this now rare “earthfast,” or “post in ground” dwelling began in the early 1700s. The house grew over time into a rambling residence featuring fine period woodwork. Over 20 outbuildings are part of the site’s 300+ year revolution, including a customs warehouse, smoke house and an original slave cabin. Sotterley offers a variety of special season events. It sits on 95 acres of rolling fields and beautiful gardens overlooking the beautiful Patuxent River. Historians have unearthed interesting information on its owners and renovations over three centuries. For information, visit www.sotterley.org.

Great places to eat

Two fine restaurants that are not to be missed are Clarke’s Landing in nearby California, Md., and Café des Artistes in Leonardtown. Clarke’s Landing offers waterfront fine dining. Its signature crab dip and crab cakes are not to be missed. You can enjoy beautiful waterfront dining for lunch or dinner. For information, visit www.clrestaurant.com.

Café des Artistes, in historic Leonardtown, offers fine French dining and a casual, relaxing atmosphere. The food is exquisite and the atmosphere is delightful. This chef owned and operated restaurant offers a rich variety of foods, from beef Wellington to lobster thermidor. Be sure to make a reservation. This hidden gem is well known to the locals! For information, visit www.cafedesartistes.ws.

Oh, and while you are visiting Leonardtown, make sure to eat breakfast at the Do Dah Deli & Diner, a fun, whimsical place where everyone knows your name. Servers wear tye dye T-shirts. For information, visit www.dodahdeli.com.

For more information on St. Mary’s County, visit www.stmaryscity.org. For information on Maryland’s Celebrate 375 events, visit www.maryland375.com. 

Prince William County, Va., lies just 30 miles south of Washington, D.C. The county is probably best known for its rich Civil War history. It’s part of “The Journey Through Hallowed Ground,” which spans 175 miles from Gettysburg, Pa., to Charlottesville, Va., along Route 15. Our courageous forefathers left their footprints behind for posterity (www.hallowedground.org).

Now you can leave your own footprints and make some discoveries of your own. In addition to historical value, there is a host of additional attractions, so gather your girlfriends or sweetheart and set your sights on a fun-filled getaway to Prince William County.

Historic Occoquan and Manassas

Founded in 1734, the historic town of Occoquan was once a flourishing town in the New Americas. Its location on the banks of the Occoquan River made it a center for commerce and trade in the 18th century. The town had the first automated grist mill in the country. Visit the Grist Mill Museum at the upper end of Mill Street.

Now this peaceful little town is a sheer pleasure in which to stroll the river walk and three square block radius of over 100 specialty shops and restaurants. You’ll find unique artisans, crafters, clothing, antiques, gourmet and wine shops. The town also offers year-round fishing and boating and many events during the year. Stop at the visitors center on Mill Street or visit www.occoquan.com.

Historic Old Town Manassas is another shopping destination featuring shops of every kind and dining from casual to formal. Select from various cuisines such as Okra’s Louisiana Bistro or Mediterranean fare at City Square Cafe. On weekends many restaurants feature live music.

The town’s historic train station is home to the Manassas Visitors Center and a working train depot with connections to Washington D.C., and beyond. Adjacent to the train station is the Manassas Museum consisting of past heritage displays and Echoes Gift Shop. For information and events, visit www.visitmanassas.org or www.historicmanassas.org.

Quantico

Be sure to visit the National Museum of the Marine Corps just outside the Marine Corps base in Quantico, Va. The 118,000 square-foot structure with its 210-foot slanted beam rising up from the center gallery through the glass ceiling is impressive. It’s meant to call to mind the raising of the flag at Iwo Jima. The museum brings to life boot camp, World War II, and the Korean and Vietnam Wars.

The exhibits make you keenly aware of the price of freedom. John M. Douglass, Captain, USMC states, “The Marine Corps Museum is an outstanding way to show the public the proud history of the corps.” The museum has a Mess Hall and Tun Tavern (replica of the one in Philadelphia, Pa.). 

A new section of the museum is under construction and will open spring 2010. The museum entrance and parking are free. Group tours need to call ahead. Some of the guides are retired service members and offer real insight to Marine life. For information, visit www.usmcmuseum.org.

Sports fans

Take your family out to the ballgame, enjoying one of America’s favorite pastimes in Prince William County. The Potomac Nationals, an affiliate of the Washington Nationals, reside at The G. Richard Pfitzner Stadium in Woodbridge, Va. Meet “Uncle Slam,” fans’ favorite mascot. For information, visit www.potomacnationals.com. 

Golf enthusiasts can tee off on at least a dozen golf courses throughout the county. Prince William County hosted four PGA Tour Presidential Cup Tournaments and is considered one the best places to play in the country. For information, visit www.golfpwc.com.

Other attractions

The Winery at La Grange is situated on a breathtaking tract of land. The tastefully restored 1790s manor house sits on a knoll overlooking the property. It is open daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Visitors can enjoy wine tasting, snacks and a selection of food baskets to accompany their wine. The winery holds special events and dinners. You can plan your next party or wedding in this elegant surrounding as well. Visit www.WineryatLaGrange.com.

The Lazy Susan Dinner Theatre in Woodbridge is one of the oldest in the area. Open Tuesday through Sunday, you are sure to enjoy an array of Pennsylvania Dutch-inspired food. The lavish buffet, all prepared from scratch, includes homemade bread and desserts. For scheduled performances and details, visit www.lazysusan.com.

Footprints you leave behind can only mean that you have unleashed your spirit of discovery and uncovered some new and delightful ways to enjoy a relaxing and memorable trip. For more Prince William County getaway ideas, visit www.visitpwc.com.