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As you approach Evergreen Museum and Library (formerly Evergreen House) on a winding road through a thick overhang of trees, you feel the hustle and bustle of the city far behind you. The traffic on North Charles Street becomes a distant memory as you gaze at the magnificent Italianate, 48-room structure. Park behind the house and enter by the portico with its Louis Comfort Tiffany awning. Note the hitching post harkening back to an earlier time.
On the hour, docents lead tours through this19th house, residence of Baltimore’s Garrett family for two generations and now part of The Johns Hopkins University. The house has remained much as it was during the Garrett’s time and is filled with more than 50,000 family belongings.
The first thing you notice as you step into the home is a mosaic floor, a theme you will see again in other areas of the house. Your eye immediately goes to the several paintings on the walls as you approach the main entrance. In addition, you note the Tiffany chandeliers, which you will see throughout the house.
In the drawing room near the main entrance, you are greeted by artwork from Picasso, Degas, Vuillard, and others. Beside a piano, which was played by a friend of the Garretts, none other than Cole Porter, hangs a large portrait of Alice Warder Garrett (of the family’s fourth generation in the United States) painted by the Spanish artist Ignacio Zuloaga. There is also an impressive collection of Tiffany glass in the drawing room, which is not part of the original Garrett collection, but is a welcome addition to the house.
Mrs. Garrett’s appreciation for artwork extended to her own creations under the guidance of her mentor Zuloaga. Her creative zeal also reached to acting, a legacy that includes a theater decorated by Leon Bakst, famed set and costume designer for the Ballet Russes. The theater was created from a gymnasium and is a must-see during your visit.
The spacious library is one of the most magnificent features of Evergreen. The collection includes several rare books printed during the printing press’ infancy (known as pre-1501 incunabula), as well as an original copy of John Audubon’s Birds of North America. Signatures of all signers of the Declaration of Independence are also housed in the Garrett library. The library’s artwork includes a sizable Tang Dynasty camel figurine that rests on a large center table. In addition to books, the politically influential railroad executive John Work Garrett, Alice’s husband, also collected rare coins. His collection had been valued at $20 million.
From the library, your tour turns to a bright yellow dining room, a Victorian room, a gold bathroom, a print room, and a recreation room housing Japanese netsukis and inros. There is so much to see in and around Garrett residence it is impossible to mention it all here.
Truly a place to get away from it all, Evergreen is a gem in the midst of the busy city. Take a drive up North Charles street and turn in at number 4545. You will be glad you did.
Evergreen Museum and Library is open Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday noon to 4 p.m. It is also available for special events, such as weddings. Concerts, lectures, and exhibitions by artists in residence can also be enjoyed at Evergreen.
For more information, visit www.museums.jhu.edu or call 410-516-0341.
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